Table Talk
Last month saw Carnevale, next month sees Easter, and now we are right in the middle of Lent, 'Quaresima'. The word carnevale comes from 'carne levare' (remove meat) in preparation for the forty days of abstinence of lent, and while it's true that Italians make the effort to cut down on, or eliminate meat and sweetmeats from their diet during lent, it can hardly be said that their diet in the meantime is anything but utterly delicious. (If nothing else, from Ash Wednesday all the way to Easter, they do try to be stricter about the no meat on Friday rule). Certainly, you'll find a host of dishes based on pulse vegetables, eggs, fish and so on, but having to dine on fish soup, delicate acquacotta, and fluffy frittatas is really no hardship.

March also brings Father's day, which is Saint Joseph's Day ? 19th March, traditionally celebrated by eating zeppole, a kind of light, fried bigné dredged in sugar (so much for lent!). Saint Joseph is known as the Patron Saint of carpenters. The story goes, that in the middle ages there was a drought in Sicily. The people in Sicily during that era turned to Saint Joseph and asked him to stop the drought promising that if he helped them, they would plan a large feast in his honor. Their prayers were answered, rain arrived, and the people duly prepared a giant feast to which everyone was invited, including the poor. The tradition is still alive today in some parts of Southern Italy, with many Lenten festivities involving offering food to the poor. In some areas, the meal on St. Joseph's, or Father's Day, must traditionally offer 13 dishes, all of which should be made with humble, country ingredients such as chickpeas, beans, rice, fava beans, baccalà and so on. It seems that chick peas are a particular favorite, with dishes like pasta with chickpeas and sweet, fried ravioli stuffed with chickpeas, two of the best loved recipes.

Recipes of the Month

Truffled Baby Artichoke Salad with crispy Parmesan risotto cake and Parmesan crema
By Todd English

serves 8

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion minced
1 pound arborio rice
1 cup white wine
4 cups chicken stock, warm (100-120 degrees)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup parmesan cheese
2-3 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
1-2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a large sauce pan over medium heat and sweat onions until they become translucent. Add rice and stir well to coat with oil. Cook rice 2-3 minutes, to get a good "sear". Add wine and 1 cup of chicken stock. Slowly "feed" the remaining stock π - ∏ cup at a time, until rice is cooked through and soft. (Normally risotto is cooked al dente, be sure the rice is cooked through.) Fold in butter and parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. Pour out onto a sheet pan “∏ inch thick" and refrigerate until cooled.

Cut into 3 inch rings and pan fry until browned and crispy on both sides. Place on sheet pan in 300 degree oven 10-12 minutes.

8 baby artichokes - clip outer leaves and peeled stem
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons canned black truffles, minced
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons truffle oil
1 ∏ tablespoons grated parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
1-2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Shave artichokes lengthwise on mandoline. Place in a large mixing bowl and toss with remaining ingredients.

Parmesan crema

2 cups heavy cream
∏ cup grated parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat cream in a medium sauce pan over high heat and reduce by half. Whisk in parmesan cheese. Season with pepper.

Place warm risotto cake in center of plate. Place a handful (about 1 cup) of artichoke salad on top. Drizzle with parmesan crema. Serve immediately.
Copyright: Todd English

Recipes From Italy

Zeppole

For the dough:
2 1/2 cups (250 g) flour, sifted
An equal volume of water
A pinch of salt
A pot of olive oil for frying (you can use other oils if need be)
1/2 cup (about 125 ml) white wine
For the dredging:
3 teaspoons powdered cinnamon mixed with
1 cup (200 g) sugar

Set the water and wine to heat, and when bubbles form on the bottom of the pot (it's shouldn't come to a full boil) add the flour in one fell swoop and stir constantly with a wooden spoon. When the dough comes out of the pot in a single piece remove it from the fire to a lightly oiled marble work surface and work it, pounding it with a rolling pin, for about 10 minutes so as to make it smooth and homogeneous. Roll the dough into snakes about as thick as your little finger, cut them into 8-inch (20 cm) lengths, and pinch the ends together to make rings.

Heat the oil and fry the zeppole a few at a time, pricking them with a skewer as they fry, so the dough will bubble out and they'll become crunchier and more golden. Drain them on an absorbent paper and dredge them in the cinnamon-and-sugar mixture. They're good hot or cold.

If you choose to dip them in a honey mixture, forgo the sugar and cinnamon mentioned above.

Prepare instead:
3/4 cup (250 g) honey
2/3 cup (125 g) sugar
1 pinch powdered cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons water
Diavolilli (colored candy bits; she calls for 50 g, or 2 ounces by weight)

Make the zeppole and keep them warm

Mix the honey, water and sugar, and cook the syrup until the fine thread stage (squeeze a drop between thumb and forefinger, then separate them; fine threads that break easily should form).

Lower the flame to an absolute minimum, stir in the cinnamon and the vanilla, and dip the zeppole 2 or 3 at a time, removing them with a fork and laying them on the serving dish. When you have finished dipping, sprinkle the zeppole with diavolilli, pour the remaining syrup over them, and serve hot.

Italian Notes

Cooking Vacations'

Property Of The Month

Verona and Lake Garda

Cooking With Executive Chef Giorgrio

A Banquet Fit For A King
Join us in Verona for an extraordinary culinary experience with award-winning Executive Chef Giorgio. Chef Giorgio, whose work experience includes a spell at the Chef de Partie, the Villa Paradiso in Perugia, La Rosa-Salo, Palazzo Arzaga, and Hotel Arcadio ~all in 4 to 5 star properties, is master in the kitchen. His accolades include Gold and Silver Medals won from 2002 to 2004 for Outstanding Cuisine in Lombardy, and "Best Lombardy Chef" in 2005 & 2006. He also won the Silver Medal at the WACS Cooking World Championship in Luxemburg in 2006. "Taking old traditions into the new millennium" is the phrase that best embraces his approach to cooking.

Accommodations: The 5 star villa property is in the historical centre of Peschiera. Recently renovated, this is a skillfully modern hotel that has retained and beautified the building's ancient characteristics while keeping its time honored charm, and is now a one-of-kind property that offers a series of elegantly appointed rooms overlooking the lake. State-of-the-art amenities and luxury furnishings deck the 17 Suite boutique hotel. Each suite is dedicated to a famous composer and is decorated with precious frescos dating back to the 1500s. It is a property for the sophisticated traveler. All the suites have modern comforts including 'on demand' TV, internet, voice mail, and a multi-media system. Refined furnishing, linens, and drapes decorate each room.

The hotel also houses the "Verdelli" Boutique, synonymous with quality and style and selling the best Italian and International fashion clothes. The Wellness Club, a "Daniela Steiner" creation, is an oasis of calm and relaxation. The hotel's gourmet restaurant, under the direction of Executive Chef Giorgio, is an absolute must. Sporting activities, excursions on the property's boat "Mae West", shopping at the boutiques, rounds of golf and private helicopter, jet & limousine service make this cooking program truly fit for a king.

Location and History Lake Garda is surrounded by small beaches and winding roads that allow you to take in the beautiful scenery with its perfumed flowers and captivating colors. Our 5 star property and cooking class program could not be in a more beautiful or better loved location.

The climate is sweet and temperate with luxurious vegetation that is reminiscent of exuberant, verdant Mediterranean coasts. Numerous pretty tourist towns surround the lake with their little harbors, tiny colorful houses, gorgeous mansions and gardens.

Peschiera del Garda is one of the most strategic and panoramic positions of the lake. Peschiera was an important place during the Roman Empire. The Byzantines, the Longobards, Carlo Magno and Berengario, built castles here. In the 12th century it obtained complete autonomy and became a free commune, but it could not defend itself from the siege of Federico Barbarossa. In the following centuries it passed through the Visconti and Venetian supremacies and later, through the Napoleonic and Austrian dominions. With the unity of Italy, the tormented period of political and economical fights and disputes finally ended for Peschiera as well. Its historical center preserves the city with fortification walls, dating back to 1553, and is set inside a huge star-shaped fortress completely surrounded by a moat.

In the narrow streets of the town's center there are an abundance of attractive shops and bars. Monday is market day~ wander through this traditional Italian market with its street traders and venders and all the alluring scents of fresh market produce. The wines produced in this area include the very famous Lugana, an excellent white wine. Legend has it that in Lugana, wine flowed from a fountain built in Peschiera in celebration of the first stay of king Charles V, coming back from his coronation in Bologna in 1530.

The Islands: Lake Garda has a surface area spanning 370 kmq, and a depth reaching 346 mt. The lake's islands are: Garda island, near Portese and San Felice; Trimellone island, near Cassone; Olive island, opposite Malcesine hospital; Dream island; and San Biagio island, near the Rocca di Manerba. The "Benaco" is crossed, from Punta San Vigilio to visit the Sirmione caves.

The "Falstaff" is an 11 mt. long boat, holding up to 10 passengers and includes a stereo, full kitchen, indoor shower, and sleeps up to 6 people. Our guests are invited on board.

Spa: The 5 star spa is refined, elegant and comfortable, perfect for offering an unforgettable pampering experience. Whether it's a full day service or a facial, pedicure and manicure, you will feel (and look!) beautiful.

Soft leather lounge sofas in large candle-lit rooms is the setting for the ultimate body treatment, facial, manicure or pedicure All the spa treatments are of high quality using organic plant origins. Each spa treatment is paired with relaxing music to help both body and mind unwind.

For more info on Romeo & Juliet, visit
http://www.cooking-vacations.com/programs/Verona.html

March Wine Picks

Wine Picks By Alberio
Salute!
Alberio Astarita, our house sommelier and owner of The Wine Corner, Via Capo 12/B, Sorrento, brings you this month's wine picks.

The Wine Corner, recommended by Fodor's Guide.

For more information, or to order,
Call Alberio Astarita at The Wine Corner +39 081 8074731 or info@soledisorrento.com or visit: www.soledisorrento.com

Alberio ships from Italy directly at your home or office anywhere in the world, in safe, custom-made packaging, customs cleared.

Top Campania DOC Wine:
TAURASI Riserva 2000-Struzziero,
Rich and elegant wine that pairs perfectly with Lamb and cheeses.
9 btls 265E
18 btls 495E

PINOT GRIGIO Anger- Produttori S.Michele Appiano. Fruity low acidity wine from Alto Adige that pair almost with everything.
9 btls 195E
18 btls 355E - Delivered to your door, and customs cleared. If you cannot make it to Italy, we bring Italy to you~

SWEET SEPPIA
Black seppia is as delicate and delicious as ever in this easy to use Contorno Sugo al Nero di Seppia. Made in Palermo, this inky sauce turns any ordinary pasta into a black velvet-like decadent pasta dish. For more info, write Contorno, Via Gangitano, 4, Palermo, Italy.

ANGELS DON'T ALWAYS HAVE WINGS
Lievito Pane degli Angeli, is every baker's dream ingredient.
Turn your breads, cakes and torts into heavenly creations with Italy's best ingredient for the perfect dolce. For more info, visit www.paneangeli.it

FUNGHI E TARTUFI
Celebrate a taste of truffle 12 months out of the year, with Appennino Funghi e Tartufi. The Albesi con pezzi di tartufo is a pasta lover's dream come true. The fine strands of delicate pasta are topped-off with morsels of truffles from the heart of Bolonga's truffle capital. For more info visit: www.appenniofunghietartuf.it